 |
| PK hiking on a loop trail out of the Zabriskie Point overlook. |
PK and I passed through Death Valley in the spring of 2015 en route to explorations of the red and gold glories in the American Southwest. That was our third visit to Death Valley, and we stayed only one night, thinking, somehow, that we'd "seen it." It wasn't true, of course, but still, we doubted we'd be back anytime soon.
Then the "super bloom" occurred, and due to an upheaval (
Cancer Club) in our travel plans to Ecuador, we found ourselves instead on a consolation trip along the central California coast, within striking distance of the bloom. Of course, we couldn't resist.
Aside from flower extravaganzas, we rediscovered Death Valley's ever-present wonders. Rocks. Craters. Dunes. Canyons. Mysteries. PK indulged my photo mania by getting up and out of camp around sunrise, and going out again in the late afternoon, to catch the best light. We hiked for hours, stopping often to soak in the colors and forms and wrap our minds around how natural beauty grabs the heart and makes the soul sing. After that lyrical (ha!) phrase, I will lay off the descriptions and get to the photos, sans flowers. Death Valley don't need no stinkin' flowers to blow your mind. (But don't miss them if you can possibly get there before the
rare bloom ends.)
 |
| You don't need to hike to enjoy Death Valley, but many gorgeous areas are accessed by easy to moderate trails. We saw hikers of all shapes, sizes, and ages in canyons and washes. (We wondered how some of them were going to make it! Black clothing? Flip flops? No water?) We both use hiking poles, wear sturdy boots or hiking shoes, carry water and snacks, bring a map and binoculars, and I always have my camera. Above, someone else is using it to take our photo at Dante's View. |
 |
Dropping into Death Valley from the west through the Panamint Mountains, and I mean "dropping." Highway 190 goes from Lone Pine, CA, elevation 3,727 ft, at the foot of Mt. Whitney, to Death Valley, parts of which are more than 200 feet below sea level. The 70-mile drive previews what awaits. Right away, you know it's gonna be good down there.
|
 |
| Death Valley in the early morning from atop Dante's View 5,000 feet above the valley floor. |
 |
Sunset at the Mesquite Dunes. Photo was taken from the road as we attempted to reach another destination while the amazing light prevailed. Since "amazing light" lasts maybe 10 minutes, probably less, ours was a futile pursuit. But at least I got this photo, and the one below. People walking around out there give it scale, and the scale is HUGE, as Bernie Sanders would say.
|
 |
More Mesquite Dunes.
 |
A favorite image from 2015 when we discovered Ubehebe Crater and the Little Hebe Crater Trail.
|
|
I'm skipping captions for most of the photos below. Unless otherwise noted, they were made at Golden Canyon, Zabriskie Point, Twenty Mule Team Canyon, or from along the road in the Badwater Basin, where we hung out a lot because of
all the flowers. All these are roughly in the same area. Death Valley has MUCH more to offer.
 |
| PK trudging up a steep trail in the Red Cathedral region of the Golden Canyon trail |
If you go .... a few tips.
- Wear light-colored clothing to help stay cool.
- Wear a hat, wide brims are good.
- Carry a light pack to keep your hands free. Many trails require a bit of scrambling.
- Hiking poles are helpful.
- Camping? Only one campground takes reservations. To score a good spot elsewhere, arrive early in the day, preferably not on a weekend. We saw lots of tents pitched on rocky parking lots in overflow camping areas.
- Talk to other tourists for ideas about where to go, what to see, especially if you're there for the super bloom.
- Get up early. Midday is too hot and too bright for maximum enjoyment, especially for photography.
- Check maps carefully and also the park-provided information. Many loop trails are easier starting in one direction rather than the other.
- Forget about your cell phone. It won't work in 99.9 percent of the park.
- If you plan to get off the beaten path, be careful. A park ranger told us back country travelers should plan on changing at least one flat tire because of sharp rocks. We made a couple-mile foray onto a dirt and rock road before we turned around, shaken and stirred by washboard surface. Eight-ply tires are recommended.
If you've never been to Death Valley, and want to do it justice, plan on spending at least 3-5 days.
