Changing Times in North Dakota and Theodore Roosevelt National Park

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We have fallen heirs to the most glorious heritage a people ever received, and each one must do his part if we wish to show that the nation is worthy of its good fortune." Theodore Roosevelt

A lone buffalo forages before the snows begin in Theodore Roosevelt National Park, South Unit, October 2008. On our recent visit, the grass was lush and the buffs were shedding their winter coats. Bison herds had been decimated by the time Roosevelt visited the ND Badlands in 1883. After he became President in 1901, Roosevelt used his authority to protect wildlife and public lands by creating the U.S. Forest Service and establishing 51 Federal Bird Reservations, 4 National Game Preserves, 150 National Forests, 5 National Parks, and enabling the1906 American Antiquities Act which he used to proclaim 18 National Monuments. During his presidency,Theodore Roosevelt protected approximately 230,000,000 acres of public land. (National Park Service). 

The first thing PK and I did when entering North Dakota in late May was to stop  at the western-most Visitors' Center on I-94 seeking info about the North Unit of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. We'd visited the South Unit eight years ago and loved it. Now we wanted to explore the rest of the park.

PK and I were surprised and delighted at TR National Park's rugged beauty in 2008. Ancient wagon tracks tell a story about the past, and we imagined Teddy Roosevelt charging around here on horseback, becoming inspired  to protect public lands and the wild creatures that inhabit them. 

Really? "The young woman at he Visitor's Center said. "I can't recommend it."
Why? we asked, even though we know that the state's extensive oil extraction is heaviest in the state's northwest corner. Surely it wasn't impacting the park?! (Duh.)

She went on to describe how constant oil industry traffic has made the road from I-94 to the North Unit the "deadliest in North Dakota" and how oil operations near the park compromise the wilderness experience for park visitors.

There is concern that drilling could even occur in the park. (5-minute video.)

When I explained that I grew up in North Dakota and was curious about what's happening up there, she said,  "It would just make you sad."

It makes her sad for sure. She spoke about farms being dissected by oil company easements that greatly enrich some, but not all, of the locals; how oil companies, working in sparsely populated areas have hired quickly and carelessly from the "outside", introducing a criminal element into previously "safe" communities. How drugs and prostitution have blighted the area and  how many North Dakotans have been corrupted by the sudden influx of big money, creating distrust and discord in some small traditional farming communities that have suddenly outgrown all their infrastructure, and where some have become millionaires while others can no longer afford rent.

"This isn't who we are," she said, shaking her head.

She, and many others warned us about driving through the northwestern part of the state on our return to Oregon. Heavy truck traffic on two-lane roads and roads in poor condition were often mentioned. We ended up NOT driving through the  heart of oil operations in North Dakota under which the Bakken Formation lies, but skirted it. Wikipedia explains that the formation underlies the Williston Basin and occupies about 200,000 square miles in parts of Montana, North Dakota, Saskatchewan and Manitoba.

Oil wells and grain storage units exist side by side along I-94
in the southwestern part of North Dakota.

Meanwhile, back at the South Unit, PK and I enjoyed a short
but lovely ride on the park's 36-mile loop drive during which
we saw buffalo herds and wild horses and hardly any people.

The Little Missouri River cuts through the park where Theodore Roosevelt
once roamed. This overview was accessed via a short trail.

Just a mile or so from the park,  I-94 cuts across the state's southern end, carrying loads of tourists going elsewhere. I suggest they stop at Theodore Roosevelt National Park  and see what  first inspired the Conservation President to preserve the public parks and lands we value so much. 

Oil on the move. Everywhere.

We visited Minot, North Dakota, the northern city where I grew up and graduated from high school, during our return to Oregon, a journey we're still on, now in Saskatchewan headed for Canadian national parks. 

More about Minot and North Dakota's true wonders coming soon. 

Earlier posts about this road trip:

Road tripping in the Four Wheel Camper'

Biking 100 miles in two days makes for a sore rear end.

Yellowstone Park, and getting along on the road.

Rolling Stones concert in Minneapolis, June 3, 2015