Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Pain in the ass Turkey Soup and an Epiphany

A rich turkey broth with broccoli, cauliflower, mushrooms, and red bell peppers. 
Before writing this post, I searched my freezer for the carcass of one of our two Thanksgiving turkeys. Yes, TWO.  That's what happens when you're feeding 22 people for four days.
I was going to take a photo, but the freezer is way too full and somehow, the remaining carcass got buried. But I think you know what a turkey carcass looks like, plus all the bits and pieces that get left on the carving platter.

For the cook, a turkey carcass is not joy-inspiring. It means work. Worthwhile work, to be sure, but through the years, I know that making stock from a turkey carcass is a pain in the ass despite the lovely outcome. 

It's the outcome, of course, that keeps me coming back. Plus the fact that I am unable to throw a turkey carcass out. Who can toss all that great flavor into the trash?

Opening a box or (gasp!) a can of poultry broth doesn't even come close. If you have a turkey or chicken carcass, here's how to make a wonderful stock, which is the basis for all great soup. 

Turkey Stock Ingredients (same goes for chicken)
  • Turkey carcass, stripped of most of its meat. Save the meat for casseroles, sandwiches, or to add to the soup.
  • 1 large  onion or 2 medium onions, cut into quarters
  • 5-6 celery stalks, cut into 4-inch pieces (More or less.)
  • 5 or 6 cloves of smashed garlic
  • 2 large carrots, cut into 3-inch pieces (Optional. Most stock recipes call for carrots, but why? They don't add flavor, that I  can tell. But they probably add vitamins. Carrots are carby, so if you use them to pump up nutrition in the stock, sieve them out in the end.) 
  • Fresh or dried thyme, 3 sprigs. Optional.
  • Fresh or dried oregano, a small fistful if fresh, a tablespoon if dry. Optional
  • Fresh parsley, a handful. Optional.
  • Leftover gravy. If you have it, use it all!
  • Boxed chicken broth 
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Stock Directions
  1. Dump the turkey carcass into a large stock pot, breaking it up to fit. Add onions, celery, garlic, and carrots and herbs, if using.
  2. Add boxed chicken broth, water, gravy, whatever you have. It isn't necessary to cover the carcass, but it should be at least half-way covered. Bring to a boil and then simmer, covered, for a couple hours. Stir occasionally so that all of the carcass gets boiled. The turkey meat should be coming off the bones and the veggies should be soft. Remove from heat and allow to cool, but not completely. 
  3. Here comes the major pain in the ass part. Get another large pot or bowl, place colander or sieve over it, and dump the turkey carcass and cooked veggies in to drain.
  4. Allow the liquid to drain into the second stockpot. That's the good stuff, the bona fide STOCK dribbling into that pot.
  5. Allow the stock to cool so that the fat solidifies enough to spoon most of it off. 
  6. In the meantime, you get to separate the meat from the carcass. Unless you want to just dispense with this step entirely. You already have the stock, which is the most important thing.
EPIPHANY! Dang. I never considered this! Until now! Next time, I may just strip the carcass super clean in the first place and not bother with this step. Because separating the bits and pieces of meat from the boiled bones and now-slimy veggies is such a pain. In yes, the ASS. Those boiled soft and slimy veggies do not make their way into the actual soup. Ok. I'm talking to myself now.
I will never again sift through a boiled turkey carcass to salvage bits and pieces of protein, even though I did it for 30 some years, and you can if you want. But not me. Wow, am I liberated or what? Old dog learning new tricks here! 

How is it that writing something down can make you realize the stupidity of doing what you've always done?!? I admit that not even the cat likes the boiled turkey. I am feeling SO liberated! Remove the meat from the boiled turkey carcass only if you're feeling particularly guilty about having too much food when so many in the world are starving. Otherwise, boil the carcass with the veggies and herbs, drain the stock, and say good riddance as you dump the bones and boiled veggies into the trash. Whooop!

Turkey Soup 
  • 6-8 cups of turkey stock
  • 2 cups of turkey meat (Approximate. Preferably not boiled)
  • (1 hot Italian sausage cut into the soup is a flavor bonus) 
  • 1 cup broccoli florets, cut into same-size pieces
  • 1 cup cauliflower florets, cut into same-size pieces
  • 1 cup dried or fresh mushrooms
  • 1 large sweet red, yellow, or orange bell pepper, cut into strips
  • smoked or regular salt to taste
  • pepper to taste
  • hot stuff (pepper flakes, garlic-chili sauce, serrano sauce) to taste

Soup Directions
  1. Prepare stock (have fun!)
  2. Set aside bite-sized pieces of turkey, preferably not boiled but those that were stripped from the carcass before the bird got boiled.
  3. Slice raw or pre-cooked sausage into bite-sized pieces, if using
  4. Cut up veggies into similar-sized pieces
  5. Heat stock and add cut-up sausage. Bring to a boil for a few minutes. 
  6. Add raw cut-up mushrooms or dried mushrooms. Cook until mushrooms are rehydrated or soft. 
  7. Add broccoli. Cook on medium for a couple minutes. 
  8. Add cauliflower. Cook a few more minutes. 
  9. Shortly before serving, add the turkey and peppers. You want the broccoli, cauliflower, and peppers to be tender but not limp. The broccoli should still be bright green. Adjust seasonings. I like smoked salt. 
Options: As a low-carb person, I avoid lentils, rice, beans potatoes, pasta and so on. If you don't care about carbs, then add any of these, or other starchy ingredients, to the soup.

Serve with a dollop of sour cream, chipotle or Sriracha chili sauce. 














3 comments:

  1. Relating heavily here with your aversion to the stock solids slime. YUCK! Royal pain in the ass is too right. And yet I still persist in picking through the entire mess, meticulously removing all the tiny, splintery bird bones so I can save all the meat and veg scraps for dog food. Not as persnickety as your cat, the dogs all love the stuff. I always assumed the carrots added an element of sweetness to the stock flavor. I still have a hard time envisioning a holiday bird feast that doesn't include my trademark stuffing (developed the year before you moved to Newport) that included wild or brown rice, southern cornbread and herbed croutons mixed with mushrooms and leeks and water chestnuts cooked in butter. Of all those ingredients, leeks are the only ones I'd still consume. Formerly de rigueur gravy thickened with wheat flour also a thing of the past. Have you found anything low carb that works well to thicken gravy? I read somewhere about using xanthan or guar gum. I've tried konjac with less than stellar results. I must admit to a sheepish and somewhat shameful tendency to mourn many things wheat-ish and sugary between October and January--lime button cookies, rugeluch, PIE!!! I'm going to do a pumpkin cheesecake for the neighborhood Christmas feast and am just about to embark on a search for a good low carb recipe to inspire me. Wish me luck.

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  2. i hardly ever make gravy, but when i do, go for Wondra! terrible, i know. but it's such a small amount. i tried a low-carb thickener once and didn't like it at all. i just scrounged around in the pantry trying to find what it was, but no luck. i must have thrown it out. i used it once maybe around 8 years ago? when i was getting serious about low carb.

    damn, your dressing sounds fabulous. i kinda missed eating stuffing/dressing this year. it was there, but after one taste, i decided it wasn't good enough for the splurge. gravy was a different story!
    are you looking for low-carb dessert? i just made yesterday chocolate chunk cookies made with an85 percent lindt bar, walnuts, splenda, vanilla, and coconut flour. plus four eggs. i got it from "the lighter side" blog, but have it handy if you want me to email a copy.
    and i am about to make choco drops, a flourless, sugar-free round cookie promoted by my sister. they are very good! and you can't go wrong, seriously, with avocado chocolate tart. i love this! crust is made from walnuts, coconut and medjool dates. uncooked, of course. so delicious.

    if i had a dog, i would continue to meticulously pick through bones and slime for pet morsels. but my damn cat won't eat boiled turkey! he is so spoiled. and now that i've figured out that I don't like boiled turkey, i'm done with picking through that shit!

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  3. I hate to sift through cooked veges to get to the good meat of the bones, so I just leave them out altogether when I make my stock. Instead I get all that good vege flavor when I make my turkey soup. The soup still has tons of flavor that way. I used to make an awesome "homemade noodle" turkey soup a day or two after Thanksgiving, but -- sigh -- no more wheat for me. Good thing too.:)

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